Content of the material
- Kreg Tools
- Other Tools
- Will you have enough privacy?
- Bi-Fold Barn Doors
- How To Hang The Door
- Three Ways to Support the Tracks
- Square the Vertical Slats
- Modern Barn Door
- Pros and cons
- What type of wood do you use to make a barn door?
- Cut List for Installing a Sliding Door
- Step 1: Assemble the Boards
- Step 2: Add Filler Strips
- Step 3: Cut the Chevrons
- Step 4: Cut the Corners
- Step 5: Install the Pattern
- Step 6: Drill Pocket Holes
- Step 7: Build the Frame
- Step 8: Attach the Face Frame
- Step 9: Rub On the Finish
- Step 10: Attach the Rollers
- Step 11: Attach the Mounting Board
- Step 12: Install the Track
- Step 13: Roll the Door On
- Barn Door Hardware and Track
- Mounting the Hardware Kit
- Sign up for the Newsletter
- Miter Saw
- Tape Measure
- Chop Saw
- Drill (cordless)
- Drill Press
- Impact Driver
- Drill Press
Will you have enough privacy?
Before you consider installing DIY barn doors, Cynthia Peller Hum, Associate at Hirsch Bedner Associates, the global leader in hospitality interior design, reveals a major detail you need to keep in mind: Sound and privacy. Unlike a traditional door, sliding barn doors don’t block out the majority of sound and noise.
“Don’t forget you will hear more sound through a sliding barn door than a traditional swing door, since the edge isn’t sealed as tight,” Hum pointed out.
As far as privacy goes, you also won’t be able to lock a sliding barn door in place as easily — which could prove to be annoying if you are trying to keep your family or roommates out. If you are installing the barn door in the entryway to a bathroom or bedroom, consider hook and eye closures or a latch with a strike plate.
Bi-Fold Barn Doors
This DIY barn door project takes an existing bi-fold door and then uses decorative slats to create a barn door look. It's an easy project and gives you a great option if you have a space where you're unable to put up a traditional barn door.
How To Hang The Door
To hang the door, we first hung the piece of oak on the wall to attach the track to for added support. Find where the studs are and mark with a pencil above and below each stud the length of the oak support, Find your center point and level for the oak support piece. Drill holes for the hardware to attach to the oak piece to the wall. We painted our oak the same color as the walls so it would blend in. Attach lag bolts to oak piece and secure with a cordless ratchet driver.
Once the piece is secured to the wall, you can lay out the support rail onto the oak piece. Mark the rail support holes to the oak piece. Drill a pilot hole for attaching the rail hardware to the oak. Attach top rail hardware and make sure it’s level and secure. Hang barn door onto top rail guide and check that it’s sliding properly.
Three Ways to Support the Tracks
To support a door, the track needs to be solidly mounted to wall framing. There are three options.
- Install continuous wood backing between the wall studs at the track height. This allows you the freedom to install track-mounting screws at any location.
- Pro tip: This method isn’t practical in a room that’s finished because you would have to remove the drywall or plaster to install the blocking
- Mount a header board to the wall surface (as seen in the photo above), making sure it’s securely screwed to the studs, and screw the track to the header board.
- Pro tip: One manufacturer recommends a maximum door weight of 75 lbs. if you’re using this method because the support screws will only be engaged in 3/4-in.-thick wood.
- The third option is to bolt the track directly to the studs. You have to do two things if you choose this method.
- First, make sure to order an undrilled track, as you’ll need to drill holes yourself at the stud locations.
- Second, ask the supplier to recommend hardware to avoid crushing the drywall. Most suppliers have crush plates or something similar to solve the problem.
Square the Vertical Slats
- Arrange the vertical boards on a pair of 2x4s placed flat on sawhorses or the floor, and arrange the 2x4s so they’re lined up under the locations of the horizontal rails.
- Space the boards top and bottom with pennies.
- Screw scraps of wood to the 2x4s on both sides of the door to hold the boards together while you add the horizontal rail. After checking to see that the ends of the boards are still lined up, measure diagonally from opposite corners to make sure the door is square.
- Pro tip: If necessary, adjust the position of the boards until the diagonal measurements are equal.
Modern Barn Door
This DIY barn door project is the perfect way to break up two different spaces to make them more functional. This way you can close the door when needed or leave it open so you have a much larger space. This plan shows that you don’t need to stick with a rustic style just because it’s a barn door. White paint, modern hardware, and a Shaker-inspired design make this door great for a contemporary or modern home.
Pros and cons
There are admittedly lots of pros to installing a sliding barn door in your home. They’re great in tighter spaces, such as hallways, and they’re a relatively simple DIY project, so you won’t have to hire out a contractor (unless you’d prefer to not do this project yourself!). However, they do require enough extra wall space for them to roll along, and might potentially obscure any artwork you have on that wall. Below, we’ve gone into the questions you should consider before embarking on the project.
What type of wood do you use to make a barn door?
Cut List for Installing a Sliding Door
Designed to cover a 30-inch-wide opening with 4-inch casing on either side, this door measures 38½ inches wide by 2¼ inches thick by 83½ inches tall.
- 1×6 pine boards for the back: Cut the boards ½ inch shorter than the height of the opening to allow the door to pass over the floor guide.
- 1×3 strapping for blocking: Cut a length the width of the work surface; ours measured 48 inches. Then cut the rest of the board into blocking.
- 1×5 pine for the filler strips: Cut three rails the width of the door; ours measured 38½ inches. Then cut four stiles to fill between the rails, completing the upper and lower panels of the door. Our stiles measured 35 inches long for the upper panel and 34 inches long for the lower one, to create the 1-inch channel for the floor guide.
- Pallet boards: About 60 boards at least 24⅜ inches long, mitered to parallel 45-degree angles on each end to fit.
- 1×6 cedar for face frame: Cut two stiles the height of the door; ours measured 83½ inches. Then cut four rails to span between the stiles; ours measured 27½ inches. Edge-glue and clamp two of those rails together to make the bottom rail. Rip 2 inches off one edge after the glue dries.
- 1×4 pine for the mounting rail: Cut it to match the track length; ours measured 77 inches.
Step 1: Assemble the Boards
- For our 30-inch-wide opening, seven 16s spanned the casing perfectly; you may need to rip the pine boards to width.
- Measure from the floor to the top of the door casing, then cut the boards ½ inch shorter on a miter saw.
- Gang the boards side by side, place the blocks along the outside edges, and use long bar clamps to cinch them together.
- Square up the assembly with longer strapping at the top and bottom edges.
- Screw the blocks and strapping in place, and remove the clamps.
Step 2: Add Filler Strips
- Use a miter saw to cut the 15 filler strips according to the cut list.
- Add adhesive and set the top rail flush along the top of the boards; adhere the upper stiles below it, flush to the outside edges, and the middle rail below them.
- Add the lower stiles and rail, leaving a 1-inch channel for the floor guide that contains the door.
- Drive a 1¼-inch deck screw through each strip into each 16 it crosses.
Step 3: Cut the Chevrons
- Use a straightedge to mark a centerline down the door’s two inset panels.
- Set the miter saw to 45 degrees and cut one end off each pallet board.
- Starting at the top rail, butt the mitered ends of two pieces of similar thickness and color together at the centerline, forming an arrow.
- Use a combination square to mark the boards about ⅛ inch short of where they overlap the stiles, as shown.
- Miter the pieces to length, then dry-fit them.
- Repeat, one chevron at a time.
Step 4: Cut the Corners
- For the boards that hit the corners, use the combination square to mark where the piece overlaps the stile and the rail.
- Cut the two angles on the miter saw, as shown.
- After installing the longer pieces, fill the rest of the pattern with scrap, cut to fit.
Step 5: Install the Pattern
- With the chevrons dry-fit in both panels, lift out one pair of boards at a time, apply panel adhesive to the undersides, and press them back in place.
- Using a pneumatic nailer, tack the boards in place with 1¼-inch brads, one near each corner of each board.
- Repeat the process, adhering and nailing each pair of boards as you work down both panels.
- Looking for more decorative options? Explore 11 of our inspirational barn door ideas.
Step 6: Drill Pocket Holes
- At the miter saw, cut the cedar according to the cut list above.
- Arrange the pieces rough-face down covering the filler strips.
Pro2ProTip: For the strongest bond, spread glue on both edges of the joint and drill the pocket holes in the rail so that the screw grabs the stile’s edge grain.
- Clamp a pocket-hole jig at the end of a rail, even with one edge, and use the kit bit to drill a hole.
- Reset the jig along the other edge and repeat.
- Drill two pocket holes at each end of the upper and middle rails, as shown, and three at each end of the wider bottom rail.
Step 7: Build the Frame
- Apply wood glue to the ends of the rails and the adjoining edges of the mating stiles, then clamp the frame together.
- Drive the screws provided with the kit into the edges of the stiles at each pocket hole, as shown.
- Remove the bar clamps.
Step 8: Attach the Face Frame
Gently remove the face frame and set it aside. Apply panel adhesive in a zigzag pattern along the filler strips. Bring the frame back to the table and orient it rough-side up, hiding the screws. Lay it in place, as shown, and align it along all four edges. Tack it down with 1¼-inch brads every 8 inches or so.
Step 9: Rub On the Finish
- Lightly sand the entire door with 100-grit paper to knock down any splinters.
- Use a cotton rag to rub a liberal amount of paste wax into the wood.
Step 10: Attach the Rollers
- Center the rolling hardware on the width of the cedar stiles. It may help to remove the wheels first.
- Mark the screw locations, drill pilot holes into the filler-strip edge with a ⅛-inch bit, then screw the hardware in place, as shown.
- Replace the wheels and slip the track into their grooves.
- Measure between the door and the track to determine how high above the casing to mount it—¾ inch for this hardware.
Step 11: Attach the Mounting Board
- At the miter saw, cut a length of 14 equal to the length of the track.
- We painted ours to match the wall.
- Use a stud finder to locate the framing and mark locations above the head casing.
- Level the mounting board above the casing and drill pilot holes through it and into each stud with a ⅛-inch bit.
- Secure it with 3-inch deck screws.
Step 12: Install the Track
- Measure ¾ inch above the casing and mark two spots on the mounting board.
- Hold the track flat against the board, with its bottom edge at the marks.
- Using a 2-foot level, check that it’s level, then mark each lag bolt location on the board.
- Set the track aside and drill 5⁄16-inch pilot holes at each mark.
- Thread a lag screw through one hole and a standoff and tighten it—not all the way—using a ⅜-inch socket wrench.
- Ratchet the rest of the lags in place, then go back and snug them all up.
Step 13: Roll the Door On
- Install a doorstop at one end.
- With a helper, hoist the door onto the track and slide it to the stop.
- Install the other stop.
- Position the L-shaped floor guide so that it contains the door in both its open and closed positions.
- Mark the screw locations, drill pilot holes, and secure the guide to the floor with the included screws.
- Position the door handle on the centerline of the stile, drill ⅛-inch pilot holes, and secure it with the included hardware.
Barn Door Hardware and Track
Because of the awkward size of our door, I had to turn to Ebay for sliding barn door hardware (mostly the track) that was the correct size and affordable. I found a 10′ track for $80.
If your door is a normal width, you can buy your barn door hardware on Amazon.
There are plenty of barn door tracks on Amazon, and I wish that had been an option for us!
Mounting the Hardware Kit
To mount our track and door, we mounted a 1×4 board directly to the wall, and then mounted the door track to that.
The reason for this is that our doorway still had the trim that stuck out about 1″ past the wall. If there was no doorway trim, we would have mounted the rail directly to the wall.
Our barn door track came with a door stopper for the bottom of the door, but it was one that had to be drilled into the floor.
I wasn’t too excited about that since our floors were only about 3 months old at the time.
Instead, my mom found me this cast iron door stop and it’s pretty much my favorite thing! I LOVE it and think it pairs perfectly with my rustic homemade barn door!
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